302 Metropolitan Ave
(718) 218-7878
Sun-Thurs 6 pm-1am
Fri-Sat 6pm-2am
Mon closed
www.suirenbrooklyn.com
By Mary Yeung & Photos by Eric Ryan Anderson
Just a few years ago, Spanish tapas bars were all the rage. Today it’s izakayas, the Japanese version of tapas bars. Izakayas are where ambitious chefs can showcase their creativity and where adventurous diners can sample innovative fares in small and affordable bites.
Williamsburg is home to several very good izakayas. The latest newcomer is Sui Ren (“The One Who Brings Fire”) on Metropolitan Ave. Owned by Taiwan native Morgan Chang, Sui Ren offers not only Japanese dishes, but also Korean and Chinese street food.
Chang says he opened a restaurant because he loves to eat. His father was a chef and his mother worked as a restaurant administrator. “They were foodies,” says Chang. “On their days off, we would visit various restaurants, sampling and critiquing new dishes. I grew up with a fascination for food.”
A fine arts major in college, Chang designed his restaurant with the help of an architect and a carpenter. Soft white lighting sets off dark wood and clean elegant lines. The place is sleek, yet somewhat mysterious, a fusion of modern minimalist design with just a hint of old world charm. The backyard is comfortable and casual, with strands of whimsical white Christmas lights and a funky mural, lest, after too much sake, you forget you’re in Williamsburg.
In the kitchen is Jun Hiroshima, a young Japanese chef. “I interviewed him for two hours, and by the end of the conversation, I knew he was the one,” recalls Chang. “He had worked at Bond Street Café and Craft, and he had traveled and cooked in Europe. He talked about cooking with so much passion.”
Cheng wanted to create a place that served upscale fare as well as comfort food, where diners can feast on Sockeye tuna, braised pork belly, grilled octopus, or chow down on more filling fare like salt-and-pepper fried chicken or a big bowl of miso ramen.
Most of the dishes I sampled were expertly executed by Hiroshima. The grilled octopus was very tender and savory, the Sashimi-style sockeye tuna served with soft-boiled quail eggs, was super fresh. The soft yolk lent a rich lushness to the dish. The duck breast, slathered with foie gras cream, was roasted to a perfect medium rare. Some of the dishes were served with a side of greens and fried potato threads that reminded me of confetti.
The salt-and-pepper boneless chicken thighs, seasoned with a hint of Sichuan peppers, were tender and greaseless, but the flavor lacked complexity, ditto the springly miso ramen noodles, although the pork belly topping was so tender it literally melted in my mouth. I washed it all down with a glass of Shochu laced with cucumber, ginger and lemon juice. It was sweet and tangy, with just enough liquor to get you a little tipsy.
Along with a wide selection of seafood and meat dishes at Sui Ren, there is an abundance of vegetarian fare. Seitan ham and veggie buns, deep fried silken tofu, organic mushroom tempura, and black edamame. These are mainly small plates priced from $4 to $12, so you can order as many as you like. For a meal, you’ll need about three or four dishes.
The dessert menu is brief but definitely not an afterthought. The homemade green tea and yuzu ice cream are both very light with subtle flavors. But the pièce de résistance is a crepe cake from Lady M of Madison Avenue—16 layers of ultra thin crepes held together with a light butter cream, accompanied by a few blueberries and a dainty pool of red berry sauce. It’s a wonderful end to a memorable meal.
